Showing posts with label 1956. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1956. Show all posts

1956 Omaha Beach



Omaha Beach was one of the beaches where Operation Overlord (aka D-Day) took place.  The others were Gold, Sword, Juno, and Utah.  


In  July 1956, not long after the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach was officially dedicated, my parents took my sister and me there.  

My dad was in the Marines during WWII.  He never talked about it.  But I know my uncle Abbey was in the Army in Normandy.  I remember as we got closer to Omaha Beach, we saw cemeteries with black crosses.  My dad said that was where German soldiers were buried.  That made an impression on me.  


When we arrived at Omaha Beach, my dad wanted to walk around alone.  Even though he was never in Europe during the war, it didn't matter.  It affected him greatly.  We walked through fields of white crosses, as far as you could see.  



Then we went and stood overlooking the beach, where you could look out and imagine that fleet of every size of boat imaginable, coming across the English Channel.  It gave me chills as a child and it still does.  


Then we walked to one of the bunkers and then onto the beach.





In 1956, there was a small memorial, not like there is now.  All I remember are the crosses and flags, and looking out at the water.




It wasn't until many years later that I learned about the poem that was broadcast, signaling the Normandy invasion was on.


1956 La Maison A Gravenchon


48 Avenue d'Admiral Grasset

Notre Dame de Gravenchon
Seine-Maritime
Normandy
France





Inside the back door was the kitchen.  When I came home from school every day I would sit at the kitchen table with my sister, and sometimes my friends, and we would have '’gouter’'.  It usually consisted of a piece of baguette with sweet butter and cocoa sprinkled on top.  I remember very well taking my baguette outside and trying to swing while eating it and having the cocoa blow off!  In the winter we would have a big bowl of hot chocolate with our baguette and butter, and dipping the bread and butter in the hot chocolate caused oil slicks all over the surface.  

Off the kitchen on the other side of the swinging doors was the dining room.  Sometimes we would play Monopoly, games that went on for days.  Usually it was my sister and me and our friend Colette.  She was actually more our babysitter, but since she was only a few years older than us, we didn't think of her that way.  Those games went on for days and days.  At dinner, we would just push it all aside until the next day.  

What I remember best about the living room was the bookshelves.  

I used to read my mother's books, mostly murder mysteries by Agatha Christie.  

One book I remember very well, though, was a book called 'Mary Queen of Scots‘.  I was fascinated by it, and read it more than once.  

Years later as an adult I found a copy of it and realized it was not easy reading.  I am amazed I struggled through it at the age of 10 or 11. 


 The other thing I remember very well was the record player.  

My mother played South Pacific and Gilbert & Sullivan all the time ("Brigadoon", "HMS Pinafore", etc.).  She had been involved in acting and musical comedy before she married my dad and she would sing along.  

The refrain of my childhood was my mother dusting while singing "I’m going to wash that man right out of my hair".  My favorite, though, was "Bali Ha’i" from South Pacific.  It still brings tears to my eyes, that longing for a magical place.  I felt it even then.  (Little did I know that I was already there).  

My mother often had bridge parties in the living room and I would sit under the table and read while they played. I loved to listen to the French ladies talk about what it was like living in Normandy during the war.  After all, this was not so very long after the war, 12 years after D-Day.  They said they had to eat cats and that for years afterwards when they heard an airplane they would want to run and hide.  They talked about rationing and bomb raids.  To me it was utterly fascinating.  

I remember once my mother told them about going to the gas station and asking them to check “l’huile and la vinaigre” ("the oil and vinegar").  She had them rolling, I guess, but they forgave her because she was American.  

We had a small w/c right inside the front door.  Every night, my dad would wake me before he went to bed and walk me down to that little bathroom.  Every night, I would pick it up off the shelf beside my bed and carry it down with me into the bathroom and set it on the floor.  Sometimes I would open the front door and take it outside into the yard.  More than once, my dad had to get his flashlight and look for me outside.  When he would ask me what I had in my hand, I would unfold my hand and show him.  The next morning, I would remember nothing when he questioned me, but I knew very well what it was.  It was my miniature horse.   

I don't remember my sister's room at all except that it was bigger than mine and had a big closet in it, which mine didn't.  

My parents' room had a huge armoire in it.  I remember when I opened it, I could smell my mother's perfume (either "Chanel No 5" or "Joy by Patou").  I remember in particular a pale blue Christian Dior suit she had bought on one of our trips to Paris, and a black and white St. Laurent dress that was my favorite dress of hers, ever.  The skirt was vertical panels of black and white, the bodice was black, with a scoop neck and along the neck were black and white squares.  It had short sleeves.   



They had a big window that faced towards the refinery at Port Jerome.  That window had a special meaning for me because of the Flying Red Horse.  (See separate post).  I remember being sick one day and spending the whole day in my parents' bed reading Agatha Christie.  Then I got bored and started to whine, at which point my mother said "Well, instead of whining why don't you do what Agatha Christie herself did?  She was bored and her mother told her instead of complaining, she should just write her own books.  And she did!".  But I didn't.

All I remember about the bathroom was that it had little hexagonal black and white tiles on the floor and a tub with feet.  The window was  patterned glass you couldn't see through.  It was big and the radiator made that wonderful steamy heat when we were taking our baths.

My room was wonderful. It was small, but I knew it was mine as soon as I saw it.  It was at the top of the stairs on the right. Lying in my bed, the door was across from me in the right corner and the window was on the left. There were shutters on the window and the big tree was right outside. In the summer we had to close the shutters to make it dark, because it stayed light past my bedtime, sometimes until 10 pm. I was terrified of the wind because I had read a Bobbsey Twins book about a tree falling on their house.  In the winter and during storms, that big tree made a lot of noise.  I remember both my mother and my dad having to come in and reassure me any time the wind blew.  The shutters helped with that too.



My mother painted a mural on the wall  on either side of where my headboard was. It was of Pookie the flying rabbit and his friends. 







The whole wall behind my bed had low bookshelves and everything was painted white.  

I had two lamps, one on either side of my bed, with burnt orange glass shades, like hurricane lamps.  One night the wind blew in and somehow knocked one of the lamps over and broke it.  That terrified me.   After that, I only used one. 

I realize now that when I lived in the King house in Vernon, TX, I chose the small bedroom at the top of the stairs on the right as our bedroom, and I painted it all pale pale yellow.  Was I trying to recreate my perfect childhood bedroom that I loved so much?


I loved that entire house.  I loved living there.  When we left in 1959 when I was 12, I felt as though I was a tree being dragged by its branches with its roots trying to stay in that familiar ground.  I still feel that way.  


The town of Notre-Dame de Gravenchon no longer exists.  On January 1, 2016, it was merged with Port Jerome into the town of Port-Jerome-sur-Seine.


1956 Le Jardin A Gravenchon

Our street was called l'Avenue de l'Admiral Grasset and we lived at #48.  My best friend Philippe Horeard (Fifi) lived right across the street and my other best friends, Catherine and Jacques Villeneuve, lived across the street a few houses down.  There was a wooden gate between stone pillars and big privet hedges on either side.  They were about 4 or 5 feet high and in spring they bloomed with very fragrant white flowers.  
Privet hedge
Flowering privet hedge


Privet flower

On the right side of the house were the stairs to the cellar with a wall on the side.  Every morning  would pick snails from my dad's garden.  Then I would draw lines with chalk on the wall and put the snails at the start.  By the end of the day, if any had crossed the finish line, I ate them.  (Not really, I just put them back in the grass.  Most of them had escaped by then anyway).


There was a garage (not ours) on the right side of the garden against which I grew my sweet peas and gladiolas.  Those were my specialty, along with tulips.  In the back corner were wild berries, currants and blackberries, I believe.  My dad cleared away a lot of these so he could plant his Golden Bantam corn.  At the time, corn in France was really for the livestock and wasn’t the delicacy that it was in the US.  My dad had my grandfather Earl smuggle in the Golden Bantam seeds when my grandparents came to visit us.
  




The corn grew wonderfully and we had a regal buffet one night with corn dripping with sweet butter.  Needless to say, the entire neighborhood wanted some seeds. 

My dad also planted dahlias, a lot of dahlias.  He had some exceptional dahlias and get really interested in the color genetics.  He loved to grow things



The back is also where my dad made me my 'weed garden'.  I had decided that it was wrong to banish pretty weeds to the trash heap.  It was overgrown and unruly, and it was my favorite part of the garden.  




In the back by the weed garden was a swing set, and a great climbing tree, I think it might have been a pear tree.   

I spent a lot of time in that tree.  

There was also a sandbox that I turned into a city with tons of highways and tunnels for all my cars.  I had hundreds of little cars, Matchbox and others.  

Right outside the back door was an area where grass didn't grow, probably because it was always shady.  That’s where I made my mud pit.  Within the pit, I had a highly complex series of walls to contain all my tiny imaginary horses.  I also liked to make mud pies of various flavors.



 It was a magical place.  


Drawn from memory in 2015

1956 Andrea Doria and Ile de France

In June 1956, we sailed on the French Line's beautiful ship, Ile de France for our second trip Normandy.  I loved all ships, but I loved that one most of all.  


SS Ile de France leaving New York 1956
We had sailed on the Liberte in 1952 to Le Havre and in 1953 back to New York.  


SS Liberte previously SS Europa
On July 25, 1956, the Italian Line ship, Andrea Doris, was stuck by the Stockholm not far off the coast of Nantucket, about 100 miles from New York.  The Andrea Doria capsized and sank 11 hours later.

 





















The Stockholm sustained severe damage but was able to return to New York.

Many people were rescued by the Ile de France, which was not far away and responded to the distress calls.  


Andrea Doria and Ile de France

However, 51 people died:  43 on the Andrea Doria in the collision and another 3 who died later, and 5 crew members on the Stockholm. 


Andrea Doria at dawn, July 26, 1956
The Andrea Doria stayed afloat for 11 hours and finally sank at 10:00 a.m. July 26, 1956.

My dad and I were obsessed with this tragedy.  We  bought every newspaper we could find.  It was all over the French TV news, of course.  It was the first time that there was actual video of something like this.  The cameras kept rolling as the Andrea Doria slipped below the waves.  Of course, this was before the internet and with what few facts we had, we tried to recreate what might have happened.  We drew diagrams.  We took each ship's perspective and fought it out.  My mother gave up trying to clear up all our documentation off our dining room table and just pushed it all aside so we could eat dinner.  We read this magazine over and over until it fell apart.



The sinking of the Andrea Doria always struck a chord with me.  I love ships and this accident had a personal connection because of the Ile de France.  There were a few celebrities on board, like actress Ruth Roman, who was just finishing a trip to Europe with her 3-year-old son; and Cary Grant's wife Betsy Drake, who lost $250,000 worth of jewelry which was in the safe.

Also, there were some incredible stories, like the girl who was asleep in her bed on the Andrea Doria and woke up on the reinforced, icebreaker prow of the Stockholm.  I hated the Stockholm because she didn't have the elegance and beauty of the Andrea Doria.  For years I followed the story, all the way to the conclusion of the lawsuits.

Not many people have accessed the wreck. She was originally under about 180 feet of frigid ocean, but now has sunk to about 240 feet. Apparently she is disintegrating and collapsing upon herself, sinking into the bottom of the ocean floor.   


Side scan sonar of the Andrea Doria on the ocean floor.

The day after the ship sank, Life Magazine hired some professional divers to photograph the wreck.  In the ensuing years, professional divers have retrieved a great many artifacts, like china and silver, etc., as well as the stern bell and one of the helms.   


One of the lifeboats at 145 feet on July 27, 1956.

Cutting an entry hole in the foyer doors in 1973

The Andrea Doria's aft bell in 1985

The Andrea Doria's aft helm in 1987
I hadn't thought about the Andrea Doria for a few years when in 2015 I was in our break room at the hospital, looking through books on the shelf, one of those round-robin things where you borrow books and either bring them back or replace them.  I was casually looking through the hard cover ones when I noticed one called "Saved".  I thought it might be religious, but I pulled it out to take a look, I saw it was written by a survivor of the Andrea Doria.  I took it home, but I still haven't read it.  I know I will get very emotional, especially when the Ile de France is mentioned.  



Many books have been written about the Andrea Doria, one called "Desperate Hours" that I also haven't read.  This is an except:
De Beaudean (captain of the Ile) stopped the Ile 400 years away, her bulk serving as a windbreak to keep the open water between the ships calm.  Then the captain issued an order that stirred the spirits of hundreds who had been stranded for 2-1/2 hours, watching helplessly as their beautiful ship tilted and tilted, closer and closer to the end.  It was an order that produced an image to be marked indelibly on the consciousness of all who glimpsed it for the rest of their lives.  "Light up our name, the funnels, the decks.  Light up everything quickly".  Switches clicked and the block letters ILE DE FRANCE aligned between the two red and black funnels blazed through a North Atlantic night that only moments earlier had shed an impenetrable and deadly fog. 
I have read many accounts of what it was like to suddenly see that name appear in lights in the darkness, a symbol of hope.  

There have been a great many documentaries and TV shows about this accident.  Every time I watch one, it seems new all over again. It's almost as though I was there.

This is interesting
Andrea Doria at fault?

So is this.
Survivors Remember Andrea Doria

Good description of the Andrea Doria
Andrea Doria

The ultimate Andrea Doria' website
AndreaDoria.org

Who was at fault?  There were many contributing factors including the Andrea Doria's design, errors in judgement, etc., and there was a great deal of criticism of the crew.  However, over the years, the Stockholm has not been held blameless.  There was also a mutual lawsuit.

Lawsuit Settled
By the fall of 1958 jet travel, old age and economics finally caught up with the Ile de France. She had served on the Atlantic run for thirty-one years. The French Line quietly sold her to a Japanese scrapping company on February 16,1959. In 1960, before she was sent to the breakers she was rented out for $4,000 a day as a floating movie prop for the disaster film "The Last Voyage" as the SS Claridon. Along with being partially sunk in the process, her interiors were destroyed with explosives and her forward funnel pulled over to crash down on her bridge. After the filming was finished, she was re-floated and sent to the breakers in Osaka. It was a very sad, undignified ending to such a proud, beautiful ocean liner.